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I bought this saw after wearing out my Porter-Cable dry cut saw. It's every bit as good as the P-C, and has a couple of nice design features to distinguish it. 1) The hand-lock for the fence and miter adjustment is great. P-C's saw requires using Allen wrenches for adjustment, which is time-consuming. (Also, the holes in the Allen screws fill up with swarf from the saw, so just getting the wrench into the screw head can be a project.) Adjustments are easy and basically instantaneous. 2) Horizontally oriented control handle and switch is very nice. Because of the way you run a saw like this (more below), the rgonmoics are much better than the P-C. 3) Pin-and-socket saw arm retainer. OH YEAH! P-C uses an old-fashioned chain-and-hook contraption to hold the saw arm down, which can be troublesome to engage. The Dewalt locks down just like their woodworking chop saws: hold the arm down and push in the retaining pin. 4) Quieter in operation than the P-C saw. I am not a shill for Dewalt; I loved my P-C dry cut saw. I never realized the design could be this much better. An important note for any dry-cut saw users: THIS IS NOT AN ABRASIVE CHOP SAW! I noticed complaints about blade life in some of the other reviews. Well, if you run this saw like an old-timey abrasive wheel chop saw, you won't get any blade life out of it either. The secret: minimal downward pressure. Rest your hand on the handle with just enough weight to keep the saw arm moving downward, and let the blade do all the work. If the blade throws more than a couple of tiny sparks once in awhile, you're pushing too hard, and the blade will suffer. I was able to make several thousand cuts in heavy stock with my P-C saw before the blade needed sharpening, an this one behaves similarly. If you're doing a lot of work, get a spare blade. Having the carbide blade sharpened usually runs about 25 cents per tooth, and if you have a spare there's no downtime...Check out the lowest price on the DEWALT DW872 at Amazon – Click Here.
Clean, fast cuts. Be careful and DO NOT force it through the piece TOO FAST. It still cuts steel pipe faster than anything before it. Take all needed precautions for flying debris and make sure the work is held securely. And, don't let your welder use it if they do not how to, first. Otherwise you get missing teeth and a bent blade. All-in-all: It paid for itself in 2 days as I saved two days of additional welding (using fittings and cut pipe instead of just pipe cut on a 45s or 22s). And, since the blades are servicable, it costs way less over time.
Point-of-reference: I was cutting 3" Sch 10 galv steel pipe for exterior mounted gutter downspouts @ Las Lomas HS, Wlnut Creek, CA. I am a plumbing contractor.
